ESPRESSO DOUBLE/DOPPIO.

03/29/2023

After another late-night bus ride, I arrived in Milan. The two-hour layover allowed me to find a nearby cafe. I watched the barista magically maneuver the machine. It was clear she had been slinging coffees for quite some time. The pull was perfect, and the stream flowed flawlessly into the ceramic demi-tasse. Everything about this coffee was marvelous. Crema was thick and creamy, and the taste was balanced with notes of earthy chocolate. My first doppio in Italy was the best I had tasted this entire trip. However, it comes second to that carefully curated coffee from my cozy creperie. I will admit that many of these coffees are in the same ballpark flavor-wise. However, there are many factors considered in an exceptional espresso experience. If you find yourself in Iowa City, please visit the expresso expert, and you will surely agree with me.

I still had eight more hours on the bus before getting to Rome. The drive from Milan to Bologna was interesting enough, but nothing to write home about. We had to traverse the Apennines Mountains, known for having Europe's best-preserved forests and grasslands. The scenery was sensational, and I could not focus on anything but the beauty encompassing me. Florence to Rome was equally as enthralling, flaunting similar geographical features. It is safe to say that the countryside of Italy is as magical as its espresso. My parents had arrived in Rome several hours earlier and were awaiting my arrival. I quickly jumped on a scooter and zoomed to our meet-up spot, Piazza Navona. The last time I saw these guys was in California several months ago. After dropping off my bag, we found a local restaurant. Let me tell ya, nothing beats conversations with family, add some quality wine and delicious food, and you are in for a memorable night. The Italians have surely mastered this formula.

All roads indeed lead to Rome because this place was packed! The Eternal City is consistently in the top ten most visited cities on Earth. This stat is not surprising when you see the rich history that is displayed throughout the city. On almost every corner, you have some historical artifact and a billion tourists taking selfies next to it. While I do not like to consider myself one of them, we did partake in the typical tourist things. In-between monuments and cultural landmarks, we found somewhere to refuel. Coffee, beer, wine, and traditional Italian snacks would fuel our sightseeing. We saw all the classics, Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, St. Peter's Basilica, Roman Forum, Spanish Step, Altar of the Fatherland, and the list goes on. The evenings were spent searching for an authentic dining spot. With guidance from the locals, we surely succeeded. There was not a bad taste during our first three days in Italy.

The morning train ride to Naples was quick, but this was not our final destination. After finding my doppio, we headed straight to the ferry. Unfortunately, the ferry was inoperable due to the roughness of the waves in the bay. We opted for a taxi which was a hilarious experience. I would call it the classic taxi ride. His driving style was controlled craziness. I trusted him every second of the trip, but the laws of the road did not apply to him. When he was not passionately cussing someone out on his phone, he would speak to us in broken English. The drive was picturesque, with winding roads and an outlandish outlook of the water. An hour later, we arrived in Sorrento. Before checking into our Airbnb, we went to this restaurant right next to our spot. We were sat in an enchanting garden surrounded by lemon trees. This city is known for seafood, which would be the only thing we would order for the next few days. It was an incredible welcome to the City of Sirens.

Like most cities, we spent a lot of time exploring and eating. There were some incredible flavors to be found. The seafood was fresh, the gelato was addicting, and the local wines were wonderful. Fun fact, Limoncello was invented here, so we had a few shots of this refreshing beverage. Sorrento was small, so we decided to take a day trip to Pompeii. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was packed with tourists. We spent hours exploring the ancient city that had been preserved for over two thousand years. Reading about the feats of our ancestors can only inform you so much. Seeing this city opened my eyes to just how advanced, cultured, and civilized we used to be. My favorite find was that graffiti existed in this period; even some vulgar writing were found. After our history lesson, we spent our last night in Sorrento by the water. We watched the wild waves crash against the beach as we enjoyed our final meal.

A few hours of train travel landed us in the quaint city of Lucca. This immediately became my favorite city in Italy and perhaps this trip. Renaissance-era walls completely surrounded a portion of the town. It was an actual fortress! When the zombie apocalypse comes, I know where to go. Another perk was that this place was not packed with tourists. English was not as widely spoken here, so I was forced to practice my Italian. The trend of good food continued as we explored the local eateries. Each taste of espresso made me want to move to Italy more and more. The Lucca locals would fill the restaurants around seven or eight in the evening. Just like that, the streets were full of life. Sitting outside, sipping a beverage, and watching the festivities is fantastic. These people know how to live a good life. I could see myself settling in this city one day.

I was sad to leave my lovely Lucca, but Florence was just as fascinating. Obviously, the city was historic and stunning, but the main drag was packed with tourists. After crossing the river, we found more of a local vibe. My favorite find was this coffee spot along the river. It was the gathering spot for many elderly Italian men. As they passionately debated with each other, I knew this was the perfect establishment. There are endless reasons to visit Italy, but I found myself here mainly for my cousin's wedding. The venue was on a rooftop with a scenic outlook of Florence. I was dressed in my monkey suit, sipping champagne, watching yet another cousin make a lifelong commitment. It was indeed a magical moment, but the traditional wedding ceremony continually bores me. This is a custom I will not partake in myself, but don't get me started. Regardless, I know there will be many more weddings for me to attend. We decided to dive deeper into the artistic culture on our final day in Florence. Our day was spent at the Galleria dell'Accademia and the legendary Uffizi Gallery. Everything I witnessed was marvelous. My favorite was the carefully crafted sculptures. Michelanglo's David was a marvel, but the star of the show was undoubtedly the Farnese Hercules.

Florence flew by, so we returned to Rome for a few days. This time we had some family joining us. While my parents entertained the fam, I opted for long runs throughout the city. After indulging too much in that fine Italian cuisine, I was inspired to step up my workout regimen. Seeing those perfected Roman bodies was undoubtedly another motivation for me. Thanks to these runs, I explored places in Rome that sparked a newfound love for this city. Far from the tourist destinations, I saw the real Rome. The trail along the river is vastly underutilized, and the surrounding communities are lovely. After running around town, I would meet up with the squad for some sort of shenanigans. One afternoon we stumbled upon the best artichoke in the city. That tender Roman artichoke makes my mouth water just thinking about it. On our last night, we got reservations at a local favorite. It was another successful dinner, and I savored every bite. My rents and I took a cab to the international airport that next morning. We said farewell, and I was onto my next adventure.